That's what the wild pigs at Big Majors Spot at Sampson Cay (Exuma Cays, Bahamas) seem to be saying as they leave the beach and enter the water while you approach in your dinghy. And often, they do get fed by passing cruisers. We heard the browns ones bite, so we were too chicken to get out of our dinghy. They, on the other hand, have no fear, probably because the locals will hunt only one or two a year.
Tuesday, February 24, 2009
FEED ME, FEED ME . . .
That's what the wild pigs at Big Majors Spot at Sampson Cay (Exuma Cays, Bahamas) seem to be saying as they leave the beach and enter the water while you approach in your dinghy. And often, they do get fed by passing cruisers. We heard the browns ones bite, so we were too chicken to get out of our dinghy. They, on the other hand, have no fear, probably because the locals will hunt only one or two a year.
Friday, February 20, 2009
THE END OF THE WORLD ... ACCORDING TO OUR INSURANCE
Our insurance allows us to go to the Bahamas between November 1 and June 1, so we went nearly as far south as we could ... to Duncan Town, the only populated town in the Jumentos. We arrived on February 16, dropped anchor and then dinghied two miles to the south to a path by which we could cross to the ocean side. We have learned that if you want to find sea beans, you really should be on a beach on the ocean side, for that is where they are likely to wash ashore. Along with Jodi and John, we were accompanied by new friends, Conrad from It's About Time and Rich from Feral Cat. The trek to the ocean side rewarded us not only with more sea beans, but a lesson about salt ponds, as we had to cross a salt pond on our way to the ocean. From Rich we learned that a salt pond is created when a storm blows the seas inland and water is trapped. The water eventually evaporates, leaving flat areas of salt. The sea salt is then collected and sold. The salt pond we had to cross was mushy and heavy with pellets of salt. It looked like a lake of snow.
On our walk the next day into the town of Duncan Town, we saw another salt pond, and it was divided into rectangular plots by stones ... marking ownership.
The rest of Duncan Town, which has a population of less than 200, is clearly struggling economically. Nonetheless, there is a small grocery, a bone-fishing business and a school. And everyone we met along our walk greeted us with a friendliness that made us feel welcome. Debbie
On our walk the next day into the town of Duncan Town, we saw another salt pond, and it was divided into rectangular plots by stones ... marking ownership.The rest of Duncan Town, which has a population of less than 200, is clearly struggling economically. Nonetheless, there is a small grocery, a bone-fishing business and a school. And everyone we met along our walk greeted us with a friendliness that made us feel welcome. Debbie PARADISE AT LAST!
All the natural forces finally came together on February 12 to give us the paradise that we always knew we would find in the Bahamas. At 6:30 a.m., we departed Long Island, Bahamas, with Jay Sea Dee (Jodi and John) and headed for the Jumento Cays. I was a bit apprehensive about going to the Jumentos, as the Jumentos are totally unpopulated except for one small town -- Duncan Town -- at the southern end of the Jumentos. We basically would have to be totally self-sufficient while there -- i.e., we were on our own!
What we found was that although almost all of these Cays are unpopulated, and we were told there would be no other boats here, the Jumentos have become more popular, and a few other cruisers are usually close by. We always found fellow cruisers in the same anchorage, some we already knew, and others we quickly became friendly with. This was worth the trip!
We arrived at the first cay, Flamingo Cay (i.e., paradise) at 2:30 p.m. I never knew that being in a remote area like this could be so enjoyable. A few boats were already anchored in front of one of the beaches and rather than crowd them, Charmed and Jay Sea Dee anchored off another beach just to the south. The day was sunny and warm, the water -- showing off in different hues of blue -- was crystal clear, and the beaches invited a lazy walk. The landscape of the Jumentos really is not so different from the Exumas, so I wondered what made this visit to Flamingo Cay so different and enjoyable for me. In part, it must be the weather. I am not a fan of the cold, and it was not only no longer cold, but it was also no longer too windy. For a long time I had been looking forward to jumping into the water and swimming and snorkeling, and with this warm weather and this clear, clean water, I could finally do it and really enjoy it. This calm, warm weather also makes longer dinghy explorations possible. It is also nice to be away from the sometimes constant chatter on the VHF radio. The VHF is really a cruiser's only means of communication in the Bahamas, so we generally have the VHF on and scanning the channels from dawn to dusk. In places like George Town and Long Island, it seems cruisers are always talking to each other about one thing or another, and so I welcomed the quiet we found in the Jumentos.
In any event, at the beach on Flamingo Cay, we found sea fans, beautiful shells, another sand dollar and even an old float from a fishing net. What treasures! Craig later dove under our boat (sitting in about 8 feet of water), and came back with more sea biscuits for Jodi and I. The boys then went spear fishing and all of us went snorkeling. It's amazing to be able to watch the varied and colorful fish, the living sea fans and other beautiful creatures in their own habitat.
Two days later we headed further south to Buna Vista Cay. Again, it was another beautiful day. On the way, John saw a small fishing boat and hailed it on the VHF. Fisherman Allan came back, and John asked him what he was catching. He had crawfish (which we know as lobster, but not like the Maine lobster we are more familiar with) and told John he would also be in Buna Vista Cay that night, so John asked him to stop by Jay Sea Dee. When we arrived at Buna Vista at 11 a.m., it was just us and Jay Sea Dee. Sea Star (Dan and Kathy) arrived shortly after us, and Jodi, Kathy and I went to the beach for a walk. As we walked south on the beach, we saw a small shark swimming north toward us and very close to shore. Kathy raised her camera for a shot, but that shark must have seen us at the same instant, because he turned left and sped away from us faster than I had ever seen anything swim. We also saw several live star fish in the water and within a few feet of shore. They were bright orange in color and probably at least eight inches in diameter. I have never seen star fish so big or so beautiful.
Back at the boat later, Craig and I put on our snorkeling masks and swam over to Jay Sea Dee and back. We were in only 8 feet of, again, crystal clear water, so we could see everything. I think there was a star fish every 30 feet -- really a spectacular find. After our swim, we dinghied over to Jay Sea Dee for dinner. For Valentine's Day, the boys cooked us a fabulous dinner and even did the dishes after!
While there, fisherman Allan came by with his fishing partner Randy.
Allan and Randy had already cleaned their catch and the lobster tails were ready for sale. Charmed and Jay Sea Dee each purchased 8 of these freshly caught lobster tails for $20. We were back to Jay Sea Dee the next night for a lobster dinner!! John did a great job grilling the lobster tails, and even I enjoyed one!
What we found was that although almost all of these Cays are unpopulated, and we were told there would be no other boats here, the Jumentos have become more popular, and a few other cruisers are usually close by. We always found fellow cruisers in the same anchorage, some we already knew, and others we quickly became friendly with. This was worth the trip!
We arrived at the first cay, Flamingo Cay (i.e., paradise) at 2:30 p.m. I never knew that being in a remote area like this could be so enjoyable. A few boats were already anchored in front of one of the beaches and rather than crowd them, Charmed and Jay Sea Dee anchored off another beach just to the south. The day was sunny and warm, the water -- showing off in different hues of blue -- was crystal clear, and the beaches invited a lazy walk. The landscape of the Jumentos really is not so different from the Exumas, so I wondered what made this visit to Flamingo Cay so different and enjoyable for me. In part, it must be the weather. I am not a fan of the cold, and it was not only no longer cold, but it was also no longer too windy. For a long time I had been looking forward to jumping into the water and swimming and snorkeling, and with this warm weather and this clear, clean water, I could finally do it and really enjoy it. This calm, warm weather also makes longer dinghy explorations possible. It is also nice to be away from the sometimes constant chatter on the VHF radio. The VHF is really a cruiser's only means of communication in the Bahamas, so we generally have the VHF on and scanning the channels from dawn to dusk. In places like George Town and Long Island, it seems cruisers are always talking to each other about one thing or another, and so I welcomed the quiet we found in the Jumentos.
In any event, at the beach on Flamingo Cay, we found sea fans, beautiful shells, another sand dollar and even an old float from a fishing net. What treasures! Craig later dove under our boat (sitting in about 8 feet of water), and came back with more sea biscuits for Jodi and I. The boys then went spear fishing and all of us went snorkeling. It's amazing to be able to watch the varied and colorful fish, the living sea fans and other beautiful creatures in their own habitat.
Two days later we headed further south to Buna Vista Cay. Again, it was another beautiful day. On the way, John saw a small fishing boat and hailed it on the VHF. Fisherman Allan came back, and John asked him what he was catching. He had crawfish (which we know as lobster, but not like the Maine lobster we are more familiar with) and told John he would also be in Buna Vista Cay that night, so John asked him to stop by Jay Sea Dee. When we arrived at Buna Vista at 11 a.m., it was just us and Jay Sea Dee. Sea Star (Dan and Kathy) arrived shortly after us, and Jodi, Kathy and I went to the beach for a walk. As we walked south on the beach, we saw a small shark swimming north toward us and very close to shore. Kathy raised her camera for a shot, but that shark must have seen us at the same instant, because he turned left and sped away from us faster than I had ever seen anything swim. We also saw several live star fish in the water and within a few feet of shore. They were bright orange in color and probably at least eight inches in diameter. I have never seen star fish so big or so beautiful.
Back at the boat later, Craig and I put on our snorkeling masks and swam over to Jay Sea Dee and back. We were in only 8 feet of, again, crystal clear water, so we could see everything. I think there was a star fish every 30 feet -- really a spectacular find. After our swim, we dinghied over to Jay Sea Dee for dinner. For Valentine's Day, the boys cooked us a fabulous dinner and even did the dishes after!
While there, fisherman Allan came by with his fishing partner Randy.Allan and Randy had already cleaned their catch and the lobster tails were ready for sale. Charmed and Jay Sea Dee each purchased 8 of these freshly caught lobster tails for $20. We were back to Jay Sea Dee the next night for a lobster dinner!! John did a great job grilling the lobster tails, and even I enjoyed one!Wednesday, February 11, 2009
LONG ISLAND, BAHAMAS
From George Town, we participated in a 41-boat sailing regatta to Long Island. Although the winds were somewhat fickle for most of the day, it was a great sailing day and we certainly had fun in our first regatta. We arrived on February 4 and spent the first two days anchored in Thompson Bay, involved in regatta sponsored events. We moved to Salt Pond after several boats returned to George Town. From there, we and friends Jodi and John from Jay Sea Dee and Jenny and Charlie from Lady rented two cars to tour the island. Typically, our mode of transportation is by foot, which, of course, limits our exploration and also can hamper our ability to get any real sense of the community we are visiting. Having a car for the better part of two days gave us a wonderful opportunity to really see this beautiful island. We highly recommend it. Long Island is about 80 miles long with about 4,000 residents. As has so far been our experience in the Bahamas, most everyone we met was friendly and welcoming. Everyone waves, whether on foot or in a car. But this is also an island with its share of struggles. For example, fresh water is not plentiful and so the residents must purchase it at a premium. In fact, everything here is expensive. A typical power bill for a small house for one month can exceed $250, and the price of food is about twice what we pay in the United States. There are no mansions, no Wal-Marts and no fast food. You will find grocery and liquor stores, marine supply and hardware stores, bakeries, restaurants and stores that sell locally made baskets and the like as well as other such treasures, and these businesses are locally owned, much as I imagine they were in the small-town America of yesteryear. In the photos in the slide show you will see some businesses and some homes. Two words about the slide show: There are a lot of photos and many of the photos of the building were taken as we drove by and so some are a bit off. It is a colorful community. On our two-day car trip we visited the Columbus monument at the northern end of the island, the Blue Hole (although we did not stop to snorkel or dive), the Long Island Library, Museum and Community Centre, churches and lots of stores, many of these depicted in the slide show. We dined at Long Island Breeze, Club Thompson Bay, Parrots of the Caribbean, Coco's and Ounce's Hot Spot. We recommend them all. At Long Island Breeze, a new and more modern establishment, you can bring your computer and access the internet and do laundry while you dine at the restaurant or lounge around the bayside pool. Mike at Long Island Breeze does the cruisers a great favor by conducting the cruisers' net every morning at 8:00 on VHF channel 18, providing an update on national news and weather and information about local businesses, and giving cruisers an opportunity to ask about the island (like how we get our propane tanks filled). When you dine at the other restaurants, which seem more "local", it is like eating at home, where the food is always good and you always feel comfortable. All-in-all, we are happy to have met some of the fine people of Long Island, and we thank them all for their hospitality.
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
THERE IS A LOT OF TRASH IN OUR OCEANS!
On a visit to Thompson Bay in Long Island, Bahamas, for $5.00, Tryphena, proprietor of Club Thompson Bay, will take you to a "secret beach" to look for shells and sea beans. Eighteen of us piled into Tryphena's pick-up truck, an adventure in itself. I had heard much about finding sea beans in the Bahamas and had not yet had the opportunity to go sea bean hunting, so I was excited about the outing. The ride was about three miles, half of it down a bumpy dirt road that finally ended high above a beach on the east coast of Long Island. The sight overlooking the beach was breathtaking. The water was multiple shades of blue, it was a windy day, and the waves were breaking over the rocks. Once I saw the beach, however, I was taken aback and disappointed to see the mounds of trash that had come in with the tides. Ultimately, I was not surprised that I did not find one special shell nor one sea bean, as my heart was simply not into looking through the trash-laden beach. Several others did find some hamburger and heart sea beans as well as some beautiful and unusual shells. I know many cruisers take time to clean the beaches, but we had not come prepared to do that. Even if we had, I think we would have found ourselves overwhelmed. What a shame to find that our beaches are subject to ruin by our uncontrolled trash. And what a contrast to the experience I had walking along pristine Sand Dollar Beach!
BUT OF COURSE!
What else would you expect to find on Sand Dollar Beach in George Town, Exumas, but sand dollars! This is one I found on a beautiful walk along the beach with my friends Jenny from Lady and Jodi from Jay Sea Dee. I also found this sea biscuit! The tide was low so we were able to wade far out into the water to look for sea life. We saw several live sand dollars and live star fish as well. The water was clear and the sand was fine and soft. All-in-all, this is a lovely and peaceful beach to spend an afternoon!
Sunday, February 1, 2009
NEW LOOK FOR MULTIPLE PHOTOS/SLIDE SHOWS
We have found that having multiple slide shows slows the opening of our site. So we are trying something new with our photos. We have added a section called "PHOTOGRAPHS" that will provide a link to our slide shows. Our old slide shows will remain on the site in their current presentation, but new slide shows will appear under PHOTOGRAPHS.
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